Tar Paper vs. Tyvek vs. Blueskin: What’s Best for Your Building Envelope?

When it comes to protecting your home from the elements, what you wrap it in matters — especially in BC’s wet climate. Tar paper, Tyvek, and Blueskin are three common materials used across the Lower Mainland — but each serves a different role, and using the wrong one (or installing it wrong) can trap moisture, rot your walls, and kill insulation performance.

Climate Matters — Especially in BC

Vancouver and the Fraser Valley experience high rainfall and mild temperatures, meaning buildings are exposed to heavy wetting with limited drying potential. Even in winter, temperatures stay warm enough to support fungal growth, while walls often stay damp if they can't breathe.

BC Housing warns: in our climate, even airtight walls can fail if moisture is trapped and can't dry out.

1. Tar Paper (Building Felt)

What it is: Old-school asphalt-saturated paper. Still widely used as a basic layer under siding.

Pros:

  • Cheap and easy to get

  • Allows vapor to escape (somewhat breathable)

  • Sheds water decently

Cons:

  • Tears easily during install

  • Breaks down in sunlight and moisture

  • Not an air barrier

Best used as a temporary or budget-friendly WRB — good in dry conditions, but not airtight or high-performance.

2. Tyvek (Housewrap / WRB)

What it is: A synthetic housewrap that sheds bulk water while allowing vapor to escape from inside the wall.

Pros:

  • Breathable

  • Lightweight, easy to wrap

  • Can reduce air leakage if seams are sealed tightly

Cons:

  • Easily punctured

  • Fails as an air barrier if seams or penetrations are missed

  • Needs careful flashing and overlap

Best used as a water-resistive barrier (WRB) in standard construction — works well if installed correctly.

3. Blueskin (Peel-and-Stick Membrane)

What it is: A fully adhered rubberized membrane used to create airtight, waterproof seals.

Pros:

  • Excellent air and moisture barrier

  • Great around windows, doors, decks

  • Very durable

Cons:

  • Not breathable — moisture must not get trapped behind it

  • Must be sequenced perfectly

  • Costs more than typical wraps

Best for high-risk areas: balconies, sill pans, decks, and full Passive House-style air-sealed builds.

Don’t Confuse Air Barriers with Moisture Barriers

A WRB (like Tyvek) sheds water but may not stop air.
An air barrier (like Blueskin) stops air but might trap moisture.

  • Moisture barriers = keep water out, let vapor out

  • Air barriers = stop drafts and heat loss

  • Tar paper = does neither very well

Why Condensation Is a Silent Killer

Even if rain doesn’t get in, condensation inside your wall can quietly destroy it from within. BC Housing outlines three conditions for this to happen:

  1. A source of moisture (like interior humidity or wet construction materials)

  2. A cold surface (like sheathing in winter)

  3. A path (typically air leakage)

Even a 1-inch hole in drywall leaks 100 times more moisture through air than through vapor diffusion. That’s why airtightness is critical.

Smart strategy: Seal your wrap completely, reduce thermal bridging, and use continuous exterior insulation where possible.

Don’t Trap Moisture in Walls

Blueskin and other peel-and-stick membranes are vapor impermeable — great for waterproofing, but dangerous if your framing is wet.

Once sealed in, wet wood can’t dry outward. And with interior poly or drywall acting as a vapor barrier, it can't dry inward either. That’s a recipe for rot, mold, and trapped decay.

Solution: Ventilate your cladding, avoid double vapor barriers, and let your wall assembly dry in at least one direction.

Other Building Wraps Worth Knowing

Typar®

  • Like Tyvek but stronger

  • Slightly less breathable

Delta-Vent / Delta-Dry

  • Advanced breathable membranes for Passive House/Net Zero

  • Delta-Dry includes rainscreen drainage

Zip System®

  • Sheathing + WRB in one panel

  • Growing in high-performance custom builds

Liquid Membranes

  • Roll-on or spray-on

  • Great for tricky shapes and ICF construction

6-Mil Polyethylene

  • Interior vapor barrier

  • May trap moisture if exterior wrap is also non-breathable

📊 Product Comparison Summary

Tyvek / Typar
Role: Water-Resistive Barrier (WRB)
Breathable? Yes
Typical Use: Behind siding

Tar Paper
Role: WRB
Breathable? Somewhat
Typical Use: Budget-friendly or temporary moisture barrier

Blueskin
Role: Air + Moisture Barrier
Breathable? No
Typical Use: Windows, decks, Passive House builds

Delta-Vent
Role: Air + WRB
Breathable? Yes
Typical Use: High-performance and Net Zero homes

Zip System
Role: Sheathing + WRB
Breathable? Yes
Typical Use: Modern airtight homes, fast installs

Liquid Membranes
Role: Air + Moisture Barrier
Breathable? Depends on product
Typical Use: Custom builds, ICFs, complex transitions

Final Word from the Specialist

A poor wrap job — or the wrong product in the wrong spot — causes:

  • Trapped condensation from daily humidity or rain

  • Mold, rot, and sheathing delamination

  • Peeling paint or warped siding

  • Energy loss from air leaks and cold bridging

Even the best product fails if installed wrong. BC Housing recommends wall assemblies that can:

  • Breathe

  • Dry in at least one direction

  • Seal against air leaks

  • Avoid major thermal bridging

Want to avoid expensive damage and future repairs?

Alantra Construction is based in Maple Ridge and serves Mission, Pitt Meadows, and the Fraser Valley. We specialize in smart, code-compliant building envelope solutions built for BC’s climate.

💬 Need an expert opinion before wrapping up your reno? Call or email — I’m happy to help.

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9 Common Ways Your Home's Building Envelope Fails